November 15, 2024
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Back in Fiji–Paddy Ryan on the move–Part 2

Editor’s Note: No one personifies Fiji’s natural history space more than Paddy Ryan, author of Fiji’s Natural HeritageTraned as a biologist, Paddy is an acclaimed photographer, skilled diver and underwater photographer, writer and chronicler of Fiji’s natural world. He’s back in Fiji now, updating his classic book. I think a cursury look at his art will blow your mind. Here’s the latest newsletter from our peripatetic sensei…

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It’s been several weeks since my last newsletter and things have taken a decided turn for the better since then. As my money was getting low, I moved out of the hotel and to friend Altaf Jalif’s house in Bayview Heights, which, because of his superb freshwater fish tanks, has also been convenient for photography. While the rain in Suva persisted, I was still able to photograph mosquito larvae and toad tadpoles in a small photographic tank. We also made a productive visit to a small stream where we collected pipefish, mollies, and a superb young mangrove jack.


When the tide was right, I headed to Suva point and managed photos of several of our waders. But this almost daily routine was broken when Marita Manley of Talanoa Treks asked if I would like to join one of their treks to climb Mt Tomaniivi (Fiji’s highest peak). I jumped at the opportunity.

Wasp (Courtesy Paddy Ryan Photography)


I was promised a pick-up from Altif’s house at 12.30 pm – but Ben let me down badly – he arrived at 12.29 pm! Also in the diesel Hilux was Hardeep Singh, a civil engineer from Fiji. Ben kept us entertained during our long drive up onto the central plateau and our starting point, Navai Village. Here we met up with our two other travel companions, Barbz, an energetic 78 year old from New Zealand, and Gigi, an equally energetic but significantly younger Brit.

We were well fed, and our two overseas companions got to sample some Fijian delicacies such as duruka in lolo (du–ruka – related to sugar cane and vaguely tasting like asparagus, lolo – coconut cream). The Fijian staple, dalo (taro in other places) was the ubiquitous Fijian starch.
The following morning it was raining (of course) and the track, already muddy, became even wetter which did not bode well for the climb. The climb was tough, even though the altitude gain was only around 2000 feet. This was not a US style, four lane highway trail. This was a knotted tree roots, occasional, almost vertical climbs and mud every else, goat track. My trail shoes were absolutely hopeless. I must have fallen a dozen times on the way up.

Whitefaced heron (Courtesy Paddy Ryan Photography)


We made it to the summit in relatively good time and enjoyed the cloud forest, one of the few places in Fiji where it is found. I photographed several interesting plants here including the cloud forest orchid below which is quite widespread elsewhere (New Guinea, Solomon Islands).
The descent was a nightmare for me. I fell at least 40 times, sometimes quite heavily and it became incredibly frustrating. As those who know me from the gym will appreciate, I actually have good balance but I simply couldn’t stay upright. Barbz had a similar problem. I ended up with several gouges on my legs and a slightly strained shoulder (after an attempt to leave the trail entirely down the side of the mountain). Our guides wore Wellington boots and never slipped at all. I may buy a pair for future hikes.


I am hugely appreciative of Talanoa Treks for giving me this opportunity. I had never climbed Tomaniivi (Mt Victoria) before and it gave me more insight into cloud forest.


But there is no rest for the wicked right? I had to leave the group and travel with Jake, Barbz and Gigi’s driver, back to Nadi. I had booked to travel to Rotuma on the Friday and needed to get back to Suva and pack for that trip, as well as return friend Mike Agnew’s scuba gear to Denarau. Jake, his lovely wife Ana and daughter Mabel hosted me for the night and in the morning Jake drove me to the Nadi bus terminal where I caught a local bus to Suva, packed for Rotuma then drove to Nadi the next day, overnighting in an inexpensive Nadi Apartment.

Talasiga country (Courtesy Paddy Ryan Photography)


Rotuma is a small island some 500 km north of Fiji’s biggest island, Viti Levu and the flight only took 90 minutes. Rotuma is a Polynesian outlier, populated by folk of Polynesian, not Melanesian descent. I was a little apprehensive on arrival, but my new friend Jake had set things up for me at Helava Homestay and the owner, Varo, was there to meet me. We also picked up Tui, a Rotuman living in Australia, and his lovely partner Leanne.


What followed was totally magical. Shortly after arrival at the homestay we were bundled into the pick up and driven 800m down the road. We took our shoes off outside a concrete block house, given sulus (wrap arounds), and walked to a large temporary shed behind the house. Dozens of people were already there sitting on beautiful fine mats and we were shown to the edge of the gathering and bestowed with a tefui each (a scented garland which included fragrant mokosoi flowers Cananga odorata). Singing, dancing to a live band, and an amazing feast followed. The welcome was for people visiting their homeland for the first time and I was honoured to be included. As I said in my FB post about this I found it deeply moving and it made me totally revaluate my life.

-Spirobranchus giganteus Christmas tree worm, Paradise Taevuni, Fiji (Courtesy Paddy Ryan Photography)


Food included earth oven pork and chicken, various curries and a Rotuman delicacy – taroro. Taroro is fermented coconut milk and is used to marinate various cooked meats. It has a vaguely cheesy flavour and I liked it.


Tired after the early departure, and too much food, I headed back to the guest house after three or so hours, profoundly shaken by the whole experience. We had all just been given the freedom of the island. The question was what was I going to do with that freedom.
Electricity is expensive in Rotuma and rationed. Not surprising really, the diesel to run the generator is imported from the mainland. Power is provided from 7 am – 10.00 am and from 6.00 pm – 10.00 pm. To my amazement Varo and Akenisi had Starlink and, when the power was on, superb internet, which was how I was able to post so much during my stay.

Rotuman myzomela (Courtesy Paddy Ryan Photography)


Rotuma continued to delight. When I woke up on the second morning and went to the back verandha overlooking a superb view of the bay, a Rotuman myzomela visited some flowers and posed for me. This bird, Armea in Rotuman and Myzomela chermesina to the scientist, is only found in Rotuma. I later photographed the endemic Rotuman skink (the only one I saw). The buff-banded rail, relatively rare in the rest of Fiji, ran around on the expansive back lawn with the chooks. I also photographed several wader species and grabbed a bad photo of the superb white-tailed tropic bird. For a finale, Tui organized a picnic drive around the island.


I left Rotuma after five days and spent two nights in Nadi, back at the cheap apartments (cheap is a relative term – $80 Fijian). An afternoon visit to Ono Cave near Tau village provided me with both a new cave and a few interesting critters. My excellent guide Jone towered over me at 6’ 5” and made me feel very small, particularly as he showed me the “cannibal stone” where people were supposedly killed before being eaten. I saw a really weird animal in the wall of the cave. It had made a perfectly round burrow in the hard rock and retreated inside when I shone a light on it. I hope to go back with a red light (which most invertebrates can’t see) and use this to try and find out more. Bizarre though it may seem, I think it might be a species of tiger beetle, and, if so, new to science.

Triaenodon obesus Whitetip reef shark, pregnant female, Kadavu (Courtesy Paddy Ryan Photography)


So now I am back in Suva, staying with Altaf again and contemplating the cracked wndscreen of my RAV 4, picked up when a large rock hit the corner of the windshield on the main road to Suva. I hope to get it replaced in the next couple of days before returning the car to Bakers’ Rentals who have given me an excellent deal on the hire. Estimated wndscreen replacement cost – around F$500.


Yesterday morning I had a ten minute section on Fiji One’s Breakfast Show, hosted by Mavis and arranged by my friend Nunia Moko. I have yet to see a replay but it seemed to go well.
Tomorrow, my friend Elisabeta has managed to set up a meeting for me with the Permanent Secretary for Education. I’m hoping she will be able to help in my quest for funding for the book. I also hope to visit the Republic of China Cultural attache on Thursday.
Unfortunately it doesn’t look as if I will be able to visit Taveuni on this visit, I suspect some of my readers will know why. However, I will go to Vanua Levu and stay with Richard Markham instead. Life is good. Enjoy every moment if you can.

Stay tuned for future blogs from Paddy Ryan and he continues his journey…

Rob Kay

Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Award winner Rob Kay wrote the original Lonely Planet Fiji Travel Guide, and is Founder of Fijiguide.com.

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