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Where to Stay

Nannete's Homestay
I’ve heard very good things about Nannete's Homestay, 56 Extension St., a side street tucked away in the rear of the infamous CWM Hospital. It’s a two-story white house and is one of the few B&Bs in town. On the top floor is a lounge area, a kitchen, and four rooms, each with their own bath room. One even has a balcony. The bottom floor has three apartments, two of which have two bedrooms. All three are self contained with well appointed kitchens. Rates begin at F$89 for a room and F$125 for an apartment which includes breakfast...

Tanoa Plaza Hotel
If you're in need of a good midrange accommodation consider Tanoa Plaza Hotel (a block from downtown on Gordon St.) which has the distinction of being the tallest hotel in Fiji. Formerly the Berjaya Hotel it was renovated in 2003 and is targeted at the business traveler. All the rooms overlook the harbor and the most luxurious units are the executive suites on the top floor. There is a first floor restaurant that offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner. There’s also a pool but it’s rather small. If you really want a good swim better to check out the municipal pool a few blocks away on Victoria Parade. Prices start at around F$180.

Motel 6
A less expensive option is Motel 6, a modern orange colored edifice located on Walu St. just off Waimanu Rd. It's close enough to be in walking distance from downtown and with prices starting at around F$60 (including fridge, aircon and TV, it's a bargain.

Holiday Inn
Holiday Inn, with 130 rooms, targets mostly business travelers and is clearly the best upmarket property in Suva.

Sandwiched between the shoreline and Victoria Parade, it's within easy walking distance of downtown Suva. There's an air of confidence and refinement about the place. It's not unusual to run into leaders of the local business community in the lounge or run into out of town executives staying as guests.

The reception area has been completely renovated, rooms have been refurbished and there's broadband Internet service in each room (and the lobby). There's also a very patient concierge who can recommend some great places to hang out.  (Suva has the best night life in the South Pacific).

I particularly like the lounge area which makes a nice venue for cocktails. It's a terrific place to meet both locals and guests. An excellent venue to meet clients for a drink. 

Just outside the lounge you can hang out near the pool, watch the sun set over Suva Harbour or take in the grandeur of Joske's Thumb. Poolside,  the hotel has also set up a pizzaria called Bati ni wai (Water's Edge) which has the only wood-fired oven on the island. While scarfing down your pizza you can also hear live music five days a week. Bands feature everything from jazz and R&B to local "Island Music". On Saturdays they have a BBQ. 

The hotel boasts a French chef and is very popular with visitors and locals for their breakfast buffet which include smoked salmon, Japan and udon. You can also direct the cook to make the omelets any way you like them. Buffet breakfast is seven days a week beginning at 6 am ending at 10 am. Buffet lunch is also popular with locals and features a wide array of salads, Indian food, Fijian fare such as dalo and ika vakalolo.  Deserts were scrumptious-- I had a delicious flan and brownies. (The hotels pastry chef is so popular that the restaurant has started to sell cakes and other items not only to in house guests but to the community at large). Their coffee is excellent, it's one of the new places in town that has an expresso machine.

The superior rooms are huge and offer every amenity -- TV, fridge, deck, and aircon that can be tweaked to your comfort level. Another great thing about the Holiday Inn is its proximity to Thurston Gardens and the Fiji Museum. They are literally across the street. Both offer a wonderful respite from the hustle and bustle of Suva. You can also walk along the shore and stroll directly across from the famous “Domain” the President’s Residence.

What I like about the hotel is its attention to detail and effort to make visitors feel at home.  While I was recently there, management threw a party to introduce all the guests, which is unusual for a hotel. 

JJ's on the Park
Another good high end property is JJ's on the Park boutique hotel (22 rooms) located in what was the YWCA Bldg off Ratu Sukuna Park. Catering to businessmen, its location is within walking distance of anywhere downtown making it handy for banking, government ministries, etc. Each room could lay claim to being a business center with phone, fax, and Internet connection. Views of the harbor from all rooms and balconies are spectacular. Prices start at F$250. There’s a nice cozy feel to the place.

Toberua Island Resort
Toberua Island Resort is actually off the coast, near Suva and was one of the first boutique properties in Fiji. There are 15 bures on this 4 acre island. Harper’s Hideaway Report in past years rated it as one of the top small island resorts in the world. The cuisine specialties include fresh seafood and continental dishes supplemented by locally grown tropical fruits and organic vegetables from their own gardens. There is a full bar service with a wide selection of Australian, New Zealand and California wines. There is decent snorkeling right off the beach and a short boat ride will bring you to a large main reef with a varied scope of marine life. Diving is also available in the Toberua Passage nearby. Prices start at F$ $390 /F$440 (single double). Full Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner F$110.00 p/p per day and two meals are F$92.50 p/p per day. A downside to consider is that the weather at Toberua often matches that of Suva – rainy and humid.

Where to Eat

For a really inexpensive place to find bread and other baked goods check out the Hot Bread Kitchen. (There are many scattered around Suva). Govinda Vegetarian Restaurant on 93 Cumming St. offers tasty and healthy food in the $7.50 - $10 range.

Fong Lee Seafood Restaurant (293 Victoria Parade) is also a cut above. Popular with the embassy crowd and many expats, it's worth a checking out.

The Old Mill Cottage Cafe Restaurant on Carnarvon St. is a stone’s throw from the US Embassy. It has very fine food, clean surroundings and is among the best of the lunchtime eateries. The converted home with bench seating is very popular with government office workers because of its proximity to the Fijian government buildings. Innovative cookery includes Chinese dishes, curries and Fijian delicacies like taro and palusami (baked taro leaves with corned beef) cooked in lolo (coconut milk), and kuita (young octopus) in miti (light coconut milk dressing). The prices range from F$8 to F$12.

JJ's on the Park (YWCA Bldg off Ratu Sukuna Park) is one of the newer eateries in town. The location is within walking distance of anywhere downtown and food includes reasonably priced appetizers such as sashimi or fried calamari in the F$8 - 15 range to main courses such as fish or chicken for around F$25. JJ's has gotten raves from both locals and visitors.

Hare Krishna Restaurant on Pratt St is run by adherents of the Hare Krishna sect and offers the best vegetarian food in town. The cafe has a pleasant air-con dining area upstairs that fills up for lunch, so get there early. Prices range from about F$10 to F$12 for a terrific all-you-can-eat meal. The restaurant also has the best ice cream in town with flavors selection (including fig, almond, ginger and nutmeg, as well as the regulars). There is another branch on Cumming St, in case you need an ice cream, roti or Indian sweet while you’re on that side of town.

A fixture of Nadi for many years, Chef's now has a sister restaurant in Suva the Corner of Thomson and Pier Streets. Chef's (like it's twin in Nadi) is actually two restaurants, Chef's the Corner, an inexpensive cafe style eatery (most items are under $10) that serves snack food and curries and a more expensive upstairs version called Chef's the Restaurant, which serves meals in the $20-40 range.

Cafe Society

Over the last few years places such as the Republic of Cappuccino aka The “ROC” (rhymes with sock) features scones, muffins and of course good java. It’s a hip and fun place to hang. You can find it on Victoria Parade a block or two down from the Holiday Inn. Every third sunday of the month the ROC has special market where you’ll find a variety of bargain items that include homeware, books, bric-a -brac, paintings, pottery, jewellery, carvings, cakes, jams, exotic Indian, Chinese and other Asian food. Roberta Nawaqatabu, a Suva native, told me that the monthly ROC market is a looked forward to events both for locals and expats. (Note that there is a second Republic of Capuccino with a bank of Internet ready computers at its offices near the old Fiji Visitors Bureau building on Thomson St.)

The newest edition to cafe society is Le Cafe de l’Alliance Francaise, which is run by the organization of the same name. Located on 14 McGregor Rd., it features sandwiches, burgers, deserts and coffee. It’s popular with students and offers books, magazines, DVDs and French television.

Another Suva cafe to check out is Head Works, a coffee house located on the second floor of 1 Thomson St. opposite the Suva Central Building. I liken it to being in the eye of the hurricane. It overlooks Triangle Park in the heart of Suva and its outdoor terrace makes for a great place to people watch.

If you want to combine eating with packet switching check out the Kahawa Cafe on Ellery Street across from the Sacred Heart Cathedral.