Kadavu Accomodations & Dining

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Matava
I’ve heard nothing but good things about Matava, a resort popular with divers, located just off the Astrolabe Reef. With capacity to handle only 22 guests Matava offers an intimate setting. It’s a PADI certified resort but in addition to diving, offers snorkelling, trekking, fishing and kayaking and bird watching. It’s proximity to local villages also provides an opportunity to get to know the local culture. Getting to the resort requires an open boat ride of 45 minutes. Take your foul weather gear. If the wind is blowing, the splashing waves can give you a shower. The property is set on a lush hillside along a shallow sandy shoreline. The bures are scattered along the waterfront and up the hill. As one reader said, “this is a rustic resort, with simplicity, personality, charm, and good service.” The management (Jeanne, Richard, and Adrian) as well as staff are attentive. Meals are presented on the deck of the ‘Bure Levu’, a gathering place for all guests. The cuisine is a blend of local and international fare, featuring entries like papaya salad, mango chicken, coconut curries and sashimi. Vegetarians and other special diets are also catered for at Matava (but may require advance notice). Local seasonal delicacies are always found in the menu – fresh produce freshly baked breads and muffins and freshly caught seafood like tuna, trevally, lobster and walu. Accommodations are traditional thatched Fijian bures with polished timber floors, louver windows, timber four poster beds and private decks. They are private, comfortable offer great seascapes. In addition to private accommodations with bathroom, there are also there are private bures with shared bathroom facilities and a dorm that sleeps up to five people. Solar power provides the lighting and gas heats the water in each private facility bure. Fishing is big here. There are two sport fishing boats “Offensive Tackle” and “Bite Me” that will take you beyond the reef to catch billfish, Spanish mackerel, mahi mahi and other varieties. Surfing is also big at Matava. The Great Astrolabe Reef, offers perfect uncrowded waves. There are three breaks that produce long barreling waves anywhere from 2-12 feet. Each passage offers varied conditions that will suit all styles, levels and egos.Prices range from F$60 for private bures with shared facilities to the Honeymoon bure for F$170. Price for dorm is $F20. Full adult meal plan is F$55 per person. (Photos courtesy of Matava). Diving notes: Soft coral in Kadavu isn’t quite as prolific as in some other areas of Fiji, but there is still quite a bit and since there are substantially fewer resorts (and visiting divers), the boats are smaller and it’s rare that you would even see another dive boat. Kadavu does have a couple of excellent manta dive sites that are reasonably reliable year round, and the Astrolabe Reef has its own reputation for being pristine and having a myriad of reef life. Expect lots of passages, bommies, walls and some pelagic activity.

Tiliva Resort
Likewise, I’ve had wonderful reports from readers about Tiliva Resort a family run operation situated on the north east portion of Kadavu, a 15 minute boat ride from the airstrip. Located on a white sand beach, Tiliva is only five bures which the Kadavuowners refer to as “chalets”. With high ceilings, the bures are airy and cozy, with queen beds, giant showers and breezy covered porches offering comfortable chairs. The tiled bathrooms have modern fixtures and plenty of hot water. There is no air con but the ceiling fans work just fine. The cooking was above par and plentiful with food that ranged from very good to outstanding. There were creative combinations of local and Western cuisine; the fish dishes (including kokoda, a ceviche-like dish made from lime and coconut milk) are especially good. One visitor said “you could become an addict of their coconut sauces” known locally as lolo. In addition to fish, steak, chicken, and pork chops were also served. In addition to the expected activities—diving, snorkel-ing, kayaking, fishing, trekking, village visit and bird watching there’s some unusual attractions. These include a demonstration of mat making, a demo how to make coconut oil and, a guided tour with local vuniwai a traditional healer who utilizes local plants. As another visitor said, “The owners, Kemu and Barbara, will do anything to make you happy and comfortable.” Prices are F$525.00 per night double occupancy for a Beachfront bure and F$420.00 per night double occupancy for a Garden bure. (Photos courtesy of Tiliva.)

Dive Kadavu
It’s been a few years since I’ve been to Dive Kadavu but from all reports this is a property that has managed to keep its standards high. As with all Kadavu properties you are transported from the airport by boat to the resort, and you wade to in the water to/from shore. It’s always a good idea to bring foul weather gear so that if the water is choppy, you don’t get too wet. The property is set near the beach with eight of the bures are very close to the shore, and two set back. Each unit has its own bathroom (with hot water), ceiling fans, bed-lamps, verandah, fly screening and external rinse shower. You have an option of getting a queen size bed or 2 singles. Two of the rooms have two bedrooms which can accommodate up to four people. The bures at the end (number 9 and 10) are the best if you want to get away from the main area where there is more foot traffic. (The website - www.divekadavu.com, has an excellent virtual tour to give you a good idea of the layout.) The rooms are in good shape and are cleaned daily. They units are roomy and some offer great views of the ocean and sunsets. KadavuFood is served in a main dining area. Breakfast is buffet-style, and you are obligated to specify lunch and dinner choices during breakfast from a limited menu, which is posted in the morning. Food runs from “so-so” to very good. I enjoyed the Indian-style curries. Occasionally they will do traditional Fijian lovo-style cooking which is akin to the Hawaiian luau using hot rocks to steam fish, pork, yams, taro, etc which are wrapped with banana leaf. Fish is often brought to the kitchen alive and often served as a sushi appetizer. The Australian and New Zealand wines are excellent.. Ambience at the resort is very friendly. Your meals are often taken with the owners and staff, so you get to know everyone quickly. Most of the resort workers come from the local village and this provides a great opportunity to get to know the local people which could include village visits and attending church services. (Above photos courstesy of Dive Kadavu). In addition to diving which is of course the main attraction, there’s also kayaking.birdwatching, trekking and snorkeling. Rates beging at US180 for singles or $US160 for double occupancy. Prices include airport transfers, 3 meals a day, taxes. (Photos courtesy of Dive Kadavu.)

Papageno
Moving up the price ladder, Papageno is also worth looking into. Operated by a German woman, Anneliese Schimmelpfennig (who spent many years in California), it has received great reviews from readers. It’s an eco-friendly property with only 15 rooms available. As the owner says, “On our 350 acre ocean-front resort, you may not see any other guests until you head for the dining area. This “low-density” principle is further helped by barriers of jungle trees, bushes and flowers.” Indeed. Most of the food is grown in the resort’s organic gardens (which you can tour), raised in their own pens, laid in their own hen house, or caught in the sea by the local villagers (or the guests!). There are two varieties of accommodations—Deluxe Ocean Bures (with bath) built a few meters from a white sand beach and ” Garden rooms” roughly 125 meters inland surrounded on three sides by jungle orchards of breadfruit, mango and avocado, with a stream on your front doorstep. Activities include diving, fishing, kayaking and even gospel singing if you’re in the mood. Yoga retreats are also held on the property from time to time. All meals are included in the cost of your accommodations and it’s gourmet all the way. Prices are $245 USD per night double occupancy for Garden rooms and $370 USD per night for the Ocean Bures.